PDC attendees were treated to
Monday luncheon speaker Alison Levine, team captain of the First American
Women’s Everest Expedition and groundbreaking polar adventurer, who used her
adventures climbing the highest peaks on six continents to impart a series of
valuable life lessons.
She began her talk by showing
photos from an earlier climb of Mt. McKinley where she learned that you have to
use resources wisely. All you have is what you can carry, which can also be
freeing. You stop stressing, she said, about the things you don’t have and
learn to make the most of what you have available.
At Carstensz Pyramid, situated
in west Papua (now named Papua province Indonesia), she had one of her most
difficult climbing experiences because the mountain she’d come to conquer had
been shut down due to war. She was told it was impossible to get to the
mountain, which challenged her to find a way. Asking the right questions, she
said, is critical in any situation. “You have to be creative and proactive and
keep asking the right questions until you get the answer you want.” She prevailed
by procuring an army escort who saw her to the base of the mountain.
When she was asked to captain
the first American women’s expedition to Everest, initially she said no. She
didn’t think she had yet gathered the proper skills and abilities to lead the
team. Then Sept. 11 happened and she realized she couldn’t allow fear
to stop her from doing what she wanted to do.
Levine referred to a quote from
Junko Tabei, the first woman to reach the summit of Everest, who said, “Technique
and ability alone do not get you to the top; it is the willpower that is the
most important. This willpower you cannot buy with money or be given by
others...it rises from your heart.”
Once Levine signed on to captain the team, the next
challenge was to raise the necessary funds. A friend connected her with
higher-ups on the Ford marketing team, which sponsored the mission as part of
the launch of it’s then-new Ford Expedition, which she called “a match made in
heaven.” Levine joked that she’d also been talking to Chevy about sponsorship
and was glad when Ford said yes since Chevy’s full-size SUV is known as the
Avalanche. She’d rather go to Everest as part of an expedition than an
avalanche, she said to laughter.
Recruiting the right team is also critical. “You can’t
afford to be up there without a team that’s fully committed and has the right
skills,” she said. “Recruiting mistakes can be costly.
When the challenge of climbing from sea level to 29,000 feet began to freak her
out, Levine broke the mission into achievable increments and focused only on
the next piece. She used a map of the mountain to show attendees the exhausting
and repetitive treks up and then back down, which are required to acclimate the
body to the altitude. If it was possible to lower someone onto the summit, she
said, they’d be dead within minutes without the proper acclimation because
muscles begin to break down at about 18,000 feet. The up and down process is
both physically challenging, she said, and psychologically frustrating.
The lesson learned here, she said, is that “even when you’re
going backward, you’re still making progress. Sometimes you have to go backward
to get to where you eventually need to be.”
Fear is okay, she said. It’s a normal human emotion.
Complacency, however, is what gets you in trouble and puts you in the most
danger. She referred to the $650 boots required to climb Everest, which
averages out to $65 a toe. “If you want to keep them all,” she said, “buy the
boots.”
To much laughter, Levine demonstrated the device the women
used to urinate standing up. Another critical thing is getting to know the
other teams who are climbing along with you so they feel obligated to assist you
should the need arise. “No one wants to give up their summit attempt to stop
and save a life,” she said. “If you have good relationships with the other
teams, no one is going to march right past you at your time of need.” Set up
those relationships before you need them, she advised.
After a climber on another team fell to his death during
their climb, Levine’s team was shattered. A tragedy can either blow up the team
or bring them closer together, which brings us back to the message about not
letting fear stand in your way. “There are always going to be risks,” she said,
“but be smart and do what you can to mitigate them.”
Another thing she learned on the mountain is that “storms
are always temporary.” If you keep your bearings, the clouds will eventually go
away, the sky will clear and everything will be alright again. She talked about
reaching “the death zone” at 26,000 feet where the body starts to die and blood
is drawn from the extremities to protect the vital organs. At this stage,
climbers are required to take five to ten breaths per step. After demonstrating
just how involved that is, she said, “So, if you ever think you’re having a
slow day, it can be much worse.
The team set out at 10 p.m. on the final trek to the summit
during which Levine was forced to call on all the lessons learned thus far,
especially breaking the project into achievable increments and not letting fear
get the better of her. When her oxygen tank malfunctioned at 27,500 feet, she
feared cerebral edema. “The good news is, if you’re thinking you have cerebral
edema, you don’t have it,” she said to laughter. After 20 minutes, the oxygen
tank was repaired but the group was forced to turn back just shy of the summit
because of a storm that trapped them in the death zone overnight.
Turning around and walking back down was harder than
continuing on would’ve been. Sometimes, she said, “You turn around, cut your
losses and walk away.” Mt. Everest is nothing but rock and ice—you can always
go back, but not you take foolish chances you may not make it off the mountain.
It’s also important to remember the risks are just as great on the way back
down as they were on the way up. As long as you’re on that mountain, she said,
you’re at risk.
She ended her talk with an inspirational story about a trip
she took in 2005 to the Rwenzori Mountains, situated between The Congo and
Uganda. There she discovered that while women appeared to do most of the manual
labor in the villages, they had no rights, were still considered the property
of men and were not allowed on the mountain because they had always been told
it was taboo.
Unsatisfied with that answer, Levine continued to ask why
until she was allowed to take a group of women up the mountain. Today, she
said, they work as guides and porters on the mountain for the same pay their
male counterparts earn. “That team of women showed an entire village of men
that there’s nothing they can’t do,” Levine said. Lesson learned? Just because
something has always been a certain way, doesn’t mean it shouldn’t change.
“Ask the question,” she said. “Always have a ‘game on’
attitude, get out there and push yourself on the peaks and weather the storms.”
—Marie S. Force
More photos from Monday:
A nine-year-old singing sensation from New Orleans wowed the crowd with her rendition of the Star-Spangled Banner.
AGA Executive Director Relmond Van Daniker, DBA, CPA, welcomes attendees to New Orleans and the PDC.